There's a solid B.C. connection to this week's column, which finds us following the travels of Quails' Gate CEO Tony Stewart.
Quails' Gate is one of few Okanagan estates that has been active in the wine industry well beyond the Okanagan Valley. Over the last two decades, the winery has been at the fore in bringing outside expertise to help raise the bar in winemaking. And it was also one of the first to engage in a significant joint venture: Plume Winery in Napa Valley.
The genesis for Plume occurred when Stewart got to know then neighbour Dan Zepponi when he was running things up the way from Quails' Gate for Anthony von Mandl at Mission Hill.
When the opportunity arose to purchase five blocks of old vines on what was the first producing property, dating from 1863, in Sonoma Valley proper, Stewart and Zepponi jumped at the chance.
"You have to respect that," says Stewart. "It's not just the old vines, this place has a real sense of history."
He also says, by coincidence, that the site's similarities to Quails' Gate are remarkable, right down to a warm aquifer that provides protection against early spring frosts.
Building on the success of Plume, Stewart and Zepponi have decided to expand their partnership and maybe set their sights even higher with the launch of Lake Sonoma Winery, a brand with which the two are determined to explore the full potential of Sonoma's sub-appellations, and the specific varietals that thrive there, at an affordable price.
"Our commitment is that we're wine people, and that when you buy a bottle of wine you should get value in the glass," says Stewart.
Judging by first tastes, I'd say they're doing just that, especially in: Lake Sonoma Winery 2012 Russian River Valley Chardonnay Very well balanced, with inviting tropical and citrus aromas with citrus and measured vanillin wrapped in good acidity (PWS, not at BCLS. Yet. Although, you could order it by the case for $23.99. I'd be tempted. $24-27, 91 points).
Also worth a nod for sure, Lake Sonoma Winery Alexander Valley Cab. Sauv. 201: Black cherry, cassis and mineral notes (BCLS Specialty, $26.99, 90 points).
Lake Sonoma Dry Creek Zinfandel 2010 Plush 'n plummy forward black fruit and spicy notes ($24.99, 89 points).
Prosecco is on a roll. So too are all things organic. For those two reasons alone, it's no surprise that distinctive and daringly packaged Anna Spinato Organic Prosecco is fl ying off the shelves, with good reason. Oh, and it tastes fine.
I caught up with Spinato's son and export director Roberto Furlani on a whirl through Vancouver last week over some good brunch bites at farm-totable driven Fable Kitchen. It was Furlani's idea to put the Prosecco in the jazzy, cartoonish green sleeve. And, fair to say, at the time, the traditionalists weren't impressed. But, increasingly, fun wins out these days and the image of Prosecco as anything but a food flexible and easy drinking kind of bubbly certainly caught on. So much so, there's a rosé coming soon and more mini-bottles, all in the same snazzy sleeves.
Belly's Budget Best: Anna Spinato Organic Prosecco Brut (DOC Treviso): This zippy, appleand-citrus-toned organic sparkler boasts fine streams of tiny bubbles, excellent body and acidity, plus an assertive mouth feel and surprising heft for the money ($14.95 at BCLS. 90 points).
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
