My wife and I lived on Lonsdale Avenue and Third Street for a number of years.
It was one of our first homes on the North Shore and the place where my son was born.
During our time there we witnessed the beginning of the Lower Lonsdale renaissance and some of the earliest applications of the divisive term LoLo, used infrequently then by residents to describe the neighbourhood and frequently by real estate agents to fuel the promotional efforts of their burgeoning market.
We remarked at the time on the speed of development in Lower Lonsdale and the ousting of many long-standing businesses. I felt genuine remorse when cult video shop Schlockbuster finally folded; it was the place that first introduced me to the unforgettable films of Michael Haneke, Takashi Miike and Andrei Tarkovsky, and felt like one of the last deep archives of great cinema.
Still, the development of the pier excited me and I relished the installation of the now-thriving night markets. I note that popular Olympic Village and False Creek restaurant group, The Tap and Barrel, now has plans to open a new location at the very foot of Lonsdale Avenue in the historic Coppersmith Shop at The Shipyards. I noticed their Coming Soon sign en route to Anatoli Souvlaki just across the street, that grandfather of dining on the restaurant-laden block between Carrie Cates Court and Esplanade Avenue.
For all the changes I have witnessed over the years, I still bow in deference to what Anatoli’s has seen. This year marks the 30th anniversary of the North Shore Greek food institution. On the evening of my recent visit, accompanied by my wife DJ, the place was packed to the gills with diners and had the energy of a highly publicized, newly opened hotspot.
Remarkably, DJ and I were seated immediately upon arrival despite chancing it without reservations. Service was prompt and efficient, and in no time I was enjoying a cold and fruity glass of Helen’s Sangria, a house specialty and a dangerously easy-sipping riff on the classic Iberian wine-based beverage.
The meal began with an appetizer of pan-seared chicken livers. Whenever I see liver on a menu, I feel compelled to order it in support of its mere inclusion. It is one of those proteins of sadly fading glory that can be positively transcendent when thoughtfully prepared. Anatoli’s version was magical and featured an unbelievably generous portion of chestnut-hued chicken livers, fried until crispy on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth succulent on the inside.
Served with a mountain of pita bread, potently garlicky tzatziki, and wedge of lemon to cut through the richness of it all, the dish was a promising way to kick off the meal and represented exceptional value at just $12.
Next up were two cold appetizers, an order of Taramasalata (a pleasantly salty, subtly briny spread of fish roe) and a dish of grilled halloumi cheese with sliced tomato and basil. Haloumi is a remarkable cheese in its ability to withstand high heat without melting into an unmanageable mess. Here, it bore the unmistakable marks of an open-flame grill, which lent the mild cheese an appealing seared, partially caramelized flavour that married nicely with the acidic tomato and fragrant basil.
The Taramasalata, which is typically one of my favourite Greek appies, was a touch on the spongy side, thickened to a point where it was better sliced with a knife than spread on a strip of pita. The dish was tasty, to be sure, with notes of lemon and olive oil, but its texture, perhaps just a house style, was not what I expected.
For her main course, DJ chose the pie dinner, a combination of two generous portions of spanakopita (spinach and feta in crispy filo dough) and roasted potatoes, rice, Greek salad, tzatziki and pita. DJ has long maintained that Anatoli’s serves some of the best spanakopita on the North Shore and her meal didn’t disappoint.
The pastry on the pie was flaky and golden and barely contained the ample spinach filling. Anatoli’s potatoes are expertly roasted, featuring a nicely browned exterior that sidesteps the common tendency of traditionally prepared Greek potatoes to be a touch mushy, as they are often cooked alongside lemon and fail to gain colour.
For my entrée, I chose Anatoli’s country lamb, a hearty and thoroughly satisfying meal of slowly braised lamb shoulder that falls apart even if you just cast a sharp glance in its general direction.
Served with the same accompaniments as DJ’s spinach pie, the country lamb meal got the better of me and I was unable to finish it in one go, but made short work of the leftovers at home the very next night.
Our meal of three appetizers, two mains and a glass of sangria, came to $87 before gratuity.
Anatoli Souvlaki is located at 5 Lonsdale Ave. anatolisouvlaki.com
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. Contact: [email protected].
Contact: [email protected]
