Leave it to an Italian mechanic to figure out how to make something go fast.
Apparently, we have a man named Luigi Bezzera to thank for inventing a machine that rapidly extracts coffee with steam and hot water.
That was back in 1884, the same year European countries got together in a collaborative spirit to divide Africa into colonies, and when Dr. John Harvey Kellogg patented “flaked cereal.”
Perfecting his invention over time, Bezzera’s method of brewing about 30 millilitres of coffee in around 30 seconds became hugely popular.
It’s a drink in itself, what Italians call “real coffee,” and the base for many popular beverages – the latte, cappuccino and americano among them.
While consumers can choose from multitude of bean-extraction machines today, the Bezzera brand continues, and is now run by Luigi’s great-grandson, Luca.
The peak of my own espresso drinking career came in my mid-20s when I found a machine in a back alley in Point Grey. Perfectly functional, my housemates and I extracted around four years of life from the humble unit before it yielded its last shot in approximately one year.
I also relied on regular 6:30 p.m. espressos from Starbucks to not fall asleep when I was taking night classes at BCIT.
Otherwise, an espresso isn’t something I’d usually order. Drip coffee is my go-to. But I thought that its more-concentrated cousin would make a better comparator.
For one, it has obvious distinguishing characteristics – crema, concentration – and is made with a certain intentionality that in many cases isn’t afforded to drip.
So without further addio, here’s a duel of the doppios from some of North Vancouver’s favourite coffee shops. Keep in mind that I enjoyed these drinks “for here,” so the shops themselves appear in the reviews as well.
Moja
Tucked beside Canadian Tire and a miscellany of light industrial businesses, Moja holds a steady line of loyal customers coming through its doors.
While there was some confusion among new entrants over how to queue properly, the service was speedy and the line quickly dissolved.
After getting my drink, I left the cosy interior for a seat on the patio.
Of all the espressos in this list, Moja’s had the best extraction. The crema on top of the liquid was thick, and the drink was very concentrated.
The flavour – from beans roasted in house – was giving classic espresso, with notes of dark chocolate and burnt caramel.
The temperature of the coffee was a little underheated.
At $3.25, a very solid choice, though it kept me wanting something … fun?
United Strangers
Next up was United Strangers, right off Mount Seymour Parkway.
I had heard good things, and wasn’t disappointed. The interior is vibrant, with ample seating space, merchandise and puzzles to pore over. There were plenty of baked goods to choose from, many suitable for lactose-intolerant chaps like me.
Here, there were two options on the menu: a more classic choice, and something brighter – Tinoco from Monogram Roasters. I ordered the latter.
Served in a handsome blue cup, this espresso was already smelling great on my way to sit down.
There was less crema on the surface than Moja's, but that could be because the beans were less oily. The flavour was concentrated and complex, with hints of green apple, as advertised on the menu.
The temperature was hot but not too hot.
For $3.50, I’d definitely get one of these again.
Nemesis
Rounding out the list is Nemesis. Tucked under The Polygon Gallery near Lonsdale Quay, this is the best location of the three shops.
From a menu of two, I chose Los Cipreses from Cristian Salazar.
This is the only shop that served its espresso in a glass cup. It’s a divisive topic, as these things usually are, but some say that glass is better because it gives the drinker a clear view of what’s inside.
Nemesis’s was served hottest of the drinks on this list.
It was also the longest shot. The flavour was nice though slightly less concentrated, with the relative abundance of liquid allowing me to enjoy it for longer.
At $5.50, it was the most expensive.
Winner: United Strangers
Unlike your selection of potential work shirts, there are no bad options on this list.
All these espressos were solid, with care put into each product.
That being said, United Strangers stood out.
The beverage was packed with flavour, just the right temperature, and served in the cutest cup.
Next time you’re cruising along the parkway, a stop in with the staff at United Strangers is sure to make you feel like you’re among friends.
In our recurring Food Fight column, we compare the fare at North Shore establishments and pick a winner in categories ranging from espresso to udon to light beer and more. All samplings are conducted anonymously with food paid for by the North Shore News.
