Apero Kitchen, the airy and expansive new Italian kitchen in West Vancouver, has employed one of my favourite design esthetics, something I refer to (largely because I haven’t the faintest clue about appropriate interior design terminology) as farmhouse chic.
It’s a sort of elevated rusticity that makes use of a warm, intentionally worn looking cream and pastel colour pallet, with wooden (or sometimes wrought iron) accents, and objects of curiosity like old doors, shutters and vintage chandeliers.
On a recent visit with my wife DJ, I liked the room right away. The restaurant is white-ish, but not white. The distinction makes a big difference as it gives the room a clean and welcoming feel, retaining its approachability while side-stepping the trappings of a stark and cold, pure white design that often portends a stuffy dining experience. The space runs deep and was much larger than I expected, comfortably fitting a surprising number of two- and four-top tables in addition to a recessed, booth-like space near the back of the room.
Apero is a reference to the term l’heure de l’apero, or hour of the aperitif, a European tradition during which one takes a light and refreshing drink prior to a meal. It is also a truncated rendering of the proprietary name Aperol, a bitter orange botanical spirit from Italy that features in the extraordinarily delicious aperitif, Aperol Spritz, a drink that is de rigueur in Vancouver right now and one about which DJ and I have fond memories from our honeymoon in Venice, so many, er, moons ago. Spritz is served throughout that city’s bacaro, the often hole-in-the-wall wine bars that serve libation and small snacks until late in the evening.
We sipped the classic cocktail as we reviewed the menu, which is adequate in its variety but errs on the side of brevity. I suspect that the menu is a work in progress, an effort by chef and proprietor Haymo Elzenbaumer, an accomplished chef from Italy’s Alto Adige region who moved to Vancouver to set up shop whence his wife hails, to get a feel for the local palate and see what sticks.
I say this because I saw flashes of excellence in the dishes we sampled, but got the sense that Elzenbaumer might be holding back a bit, awaiting confirmation that the North Shore diner is receptive to deeper forays into more traditional territory, hopefully into his native Northern Italian homeland where hearty cuisine with Germanic influences prevails. On my next visit, I might sample one of the evening’s specials, which may be another method through which the menu is being tested.
In any event, speculation aside, our meal was perfectly pleasant and well prepared. An appetizer of baked eggplant with goat cheese, sundried tomatoes and roasted red peppers was bright and lively, marrying nicely with a glass of Pinot Grigio, while an Arugula and Tomato Salad did a nice job of showcasing the in-season peppery greens with minimal distraction. My main course of Mushroom Ravioli (ordered because the dude at the neighbouring table was vociferously enjoying his) proved to be exceptionally tasty and the star of the meal, with its tender little pasta pockets stuffed with earthy mushrooms, all dredged in a creamy, rich mascarpone cream sauce.
DJ chose the Gnocchi with spicy marinara sauce (technically an appetizer) as her main and enjoyed the golden, chewy pasta bites as a finger food, easily dip-able in the accompanying ramekin of house-made tomato sauce. I sipped a ripe and round Nero D’Avola from the by-the-glass list; six- and nine-ounce pours are available.
We finished our meal with a soft and warm flourless Chocolate Almond Torte with vanilla ice cream. The gluten-free dessert had a nice, light texture and toasted nutty character.
Our meal was $130 before gratuity. Apero Kitchen is located at 1735 Marine Dr. in West Vancouver. aperokitchen.wordpress.com 604-921-2583
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Local cowboys James Lester and Richard Klaus, also known as the Sons of Vancouver, are in rapid growth mode.
The creative distillers behind one of the Vancouver cocktail scene’s most treasured ingredients, Sons of Vancouver amaretto, have found such demand for their distillates (which also include vodka and chili vodka) that they have been forced into expansion mode sooner than their business plan forecasted. It’s a good challenge to have, no doubt, but a challenge nevertheless.
The progressive duo has once again turned to crowd-funding platform Indiegogo (it was through crowd-funding that the guys financed their operation in the first place) to generate capital to acquire a new mashtun. Their campaign wraps on Sept. 15 and has some very unique rewards for contributors, including lessons on distillation and even a 30-litre barrel of B.C.-made single malt whisky; when they say barrel, they don’t just mean the contents, but the physical barrel as well. Learn more on their Indiegogo page, http://ow.ly/saFs303T5Lb.
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A lot of work is taking place down in the Harbourside area, south of Marine Drive by Bewicke Avenue. Extensive road re-routing and the development of a safer, more accessible pedestrian thoroughfare are on the agenda. During this time, however, a couple of my favourite local businesses, Gretchen’s Here and Now Bakery and Black Kettle Brewing, are a bit obscured by the construction. With school starting up again, Gretchen’s thoughtful, homemade sweet and savoury treats (including the incomparably tasty and aptly named OMG cookies) are a great item for inclusion in a Friday lunchbox.
Meanwhile, Black Kettle has some excellent seasonal (and eminently sessionable) brews to complement their Pale Ale and IPA mainstays. Don’t let the infrastructure improvements down there keep you away.
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. He can be reached via email at [email protected]. North Shore News dining reviews are conducted anonymously and all meals are paid for by the newspaper.
