When it was situated on East 12th Street just off Lonsdale Avenue, a spot it occupied for what seemed like forever, Colosseum Pizza was known as an industry hangout.
That means that those of us who worked in restaurants designated it one of our go-to spots for post-shift drinks and eats and that we knew the staff there on a first name basis. We ordered the best stuff they had on the menu, left good tips and were always respectful of the time; when it was time to go, often in the wee hours when the staff had finally reached exhaustion, we went, no arguments.
I first heard about Colosseum’s plans for wholesale reinvention in early 2015 when I dropped by for a pizza. The place had just reopened following a protracted hiatus from operation that began in 2014 and around which very little seemed to be known by anyone. During that visit I was told that the restaurant would be downsizing dramatically and focusing on take-out business somewhere in Lower Lonsdale, timing to be determined.
I recently noticed the Now Open sign in front of Colosseum’s brand new digs down on West First Street, straddling the alleyway by neighbouring business Buddha-Full Juice Bar and quite literally across the street from another pizza institution, Doc’s.
The new Colosseum, a bright, modern but diminutive space is not going to be an industry go-to anymore, given its hours of operation, limited seating and take-away focus, but I am happy to report that the restaurant’s pizza is every bit as good as it ever was with a menu that, thankfully, still includes one of Greater Vancouver’s all-time best pizza creations, the Patate Con Aglio.
I have seen copycat versions of this pie pop up here and there over the years, but let it be said, no one does it like these guys. The Patate is a tomato-less, thicker crust pizza topped with thin slices of skin-on potato, translucent rings of white onion, hefty doses of roasted garlic, plump sprigs of rosemary, crumbled feta cheese and cracked black pepper. It is, quite simply, inspired.
Having eaten this pizza countless times, I was happy to note that it has not changed in any way despite it being issued from a shiny new kitchen, and that it still pairs brilliantly with a glass of good sauvignon blanc, preferably a bright and herbaceous iteration from the Loire Valley.
The Patate was one of four pizzas in my recent takeout order, which also included a very simple cheese and tomato sauce job, (that was a good showcase for Colosseum’s denser, decidedly not Neapolitan-style crust), a pepperoni pie, a generously topped affair that would make a great game and beer accompaniment, and Prosciutto con Pomodori, a rich and savoury blend of thinly shaved prosciutto, bell peppers and wedges of fresh tomato.
The pizza menu runs from the very simple (see above) to the more sophisticated, with toppings that include anchovies, California raisins and walnuts, pancetta, and artichokes.
Baked lasagna, spaghetti and Greek, Caesar and House salads are also available in this fully licensed casual eatery.
Colosseum Pizza. 100-124 West First St., North Vancouver. colosseumpizza.ca. 604-980-2212
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. He can be reached via email at [email protected].
North Shore News dining reviews are conducted anonymously and all meals are paid for by the newspaper.
