FEW WOULD ARGUE.
One individual who's done more than most to build a successful B.C. wine industry is Sumac Ridge founder Harry McWatters, who established B.C.'s first estate winery - in Summerland, in 1979.
This at a time when all Okanagan wines were generally dismissed as being somewhere between unpalatable and indigestible. And when the notion of the valley producing any red more drinkable than the occasional bottle of Chancellor was unthinkable.
The word "pioneer" (B.C. has a handful who deserve that moniker) isn't easily bestowed but it refers specifically to a person who had the vision to venture into truly uncharted territory- and the ability to achieve their goal.
"Black Sage" is the name that now rattles comfortably off our lips as being the Okanagan Valley's premium red wine area (with obvious potential for sub-appellation status sooner rather than later.)
However, it pays to remember and put things in context. It was McWatters who pioneered the (then unthinkable) rise of B.C.'s Bordeaux varieties with his purchase of the very first Black Sage parcel and subsequent planting in the early 1990s.
The rest, as they say, is history. Or is it?
When McWatters sold Sumac Ridge to Vincor (later purchased by giant Constellation) he was shrewd enough to keep his cherished Black Sage Vineyard - the very backbone of the well-made, carefully aged Bordeaux style reds, always held back for release, for which Sumac had become rightly known.
Recently, the man who fought harder than anyone for VQA has been busy building a successful wine consultancy-and working on his own McWatters Collection label.
No surprise, the first release is a 2007 Meritage, reminding us that it was McWatters who launched the first B.C. Meritage.
The well structured, but not over-the-top, Merlot dominant (60 per cent), Cab Sauv (35 per cent) Cab Franc (five per cent) blend sports plush black fruit, moderate tannins and a touch of black pepper; and while it's certainly eminently drinkable now (with something steakish and barbecued) it will certainly evolve for a few years yet. Around $25. Available at Park Royal Village liquor store, or email [email protected]
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Chances are you won't find a more patriotic wine and spirits list than at Edible Canada at the Market-kitty corner to the market's main entrance.
The new Granville Island destination from Edible B.C. founder Eric Pateman (which opened on Canada Day this year) sports everything from Newfie Screech to Saanich Sea Cider.
Sommelier and EAT Magazine drinks editor Treve Ring (who has the enviable title of Director of Liquid Assets), is tasked with keeping things interesting by tracking down the best of Canadian drops.
So far, the well stocked wine bar yields the likes of Foxtrot, Joie, Stoneboat, Orofino, Tantalus, Venturi Schulze and many more worthy B.C. names, as well as Nichol Vineyards Gewurz and 9 Mile Red.
The latter are served "on tap" from 19.5-litre kegs - and you can be sure that there are more than a few other wineries offering to do the same.
Ironically, however, although Ring has been sure to include wines from every single region of B.C., it won't be easy for her to do the same for the rest of Canada. However, she does hope to bring in tastes such as Nova Scotia's L'Acadie Vineyards sparkling wine (Wolfville, Nova Scotia) and Ontario's Kittling Ridge Forty Creek Double Barrel Reserve Whisky.
Flag waving suds lovers can revel in a growing selection of "imported" brews, ranging from Unibroue (Chambly, Que.) to Toronto's Steam Whistle and Halifax Propeller ESB, with more to come, says Ring.
The already popular bistro includes a flexible private space which you can be sure will become a vortex of visiting winemakers, brewers and distillers.
