One of the many challenges faced by a new wine region such as the Okanagan is identifying which varieties of grapes do well, and on which sites.
There's been a fair bit of excitement recently about Cabernet Franc and with good reason, as my first two suggestions this week prove.
While used in Bordeaux more as a blending grape, as a single variety "Cab Franc" is a pillar of the Loire Valley. In Canada, where we've embraced it as much as anything for its ability to ripen earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, it has also been used for blending, although in recent years its popularity as a stand-alone has also been steadily on the rise, especially in the Okanagan.
Owen 2011 is a unique project from the inventive folks at Okanagan Crush Pad, who produced it with West sommelier Owen Knowlton. Proceeds from its sale go towards the British Columbia Hospitality Foundation scholarship fund, and the winery collaborates with a different "star" sommelier every year. This is a pure expression of the variety, with berries and dark chocolate on top, followed by a juicy palate with boysenberry and blueberry notes, a touch of minerality and approachable, easy tannins. Think pasta with tomatobased sauce. There were only 100 cases made but you can still track it down from the winery and from some private stores ($25.90 at the winery, 90 points).
Culmina Hypothesis 2011
Here's a wine I figured would be worth waiting for, and I wasn't disappointed. This is the inaugural release from just-opened Culmina Family Estate, the project undertaken by Don Triggs, his wife Elaine and their daughter Sara. If you recognize the name, you're right. That's Triggs, as in Jackson-Triggs, and it was Don Triggs who piloted Canada's Vincor to be one of the world's most successful wine companies before it was swallowed up by Constellation. The Triggs family landed in the Okanagan Valley. I tasted this wine over a couple of days and was truly impressed with the way it developed and retained its structure. The blend of Cabernet Franc (40 per cent), Merlot (36 per cent) and Cabernet Sauvignon (24 per cent) was made by former Osoyoos Larose winemaker Pascal Madevon. The nose has some cassis and dusty hints, followed by a full-bodied palate of red and black fruit, and leather notes with layers of spice and minerality, wrapped in juicy acidity ($48, from the winery, 91points). Food pairing? Serious roast beef territory. As mentioned, this is the inaugural release, and a definite sign of great things to come from what I suspect will emerge as one of the valley's hallmark wineries. I'm looking forward to tasting the Chardonnay and rosé in a couple of weeks. Not to mention (next year) the Okanagan's first Gruner Veltliner and Riesling, from one of the highest vineyards in the valley.
Speaking of iconic wines, run, don't walk, to chase down the next one: JoieFarm En Famille Chardonnay 2011. This may well be one of the most exciting B.C. Chardonnays I've tasted to date from Joie's "top tier." Aromas of stonefruit and tropical notes precede a rich and opulent, but extraordinarily well balanced, palate of citrus and pineapple, just enough buttery French oak to make it interesting and textured acidity with zest and peach notes in the close. Great value at $30 (92 points).
Belly's Best
Lake Breeze Pinot Gris 2012: Tropical notes on top with apple and lychee notes. Good mouthfeel and a touch of spice before a lengthy end ($19, 89 points).
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly. com. Contact: rebelmouse. com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
