Several years ago, my friend Matt would have been an unlikely candidate to accompany me on a restaurant review.
The most fitness-minded guy I know, Matt once had a purely functional relationship with food; it was the fuel that kept him going and it needn’t have been fussy or fancy to do the job. I confess, I have on more than one occasion wished I shared a similar outlook.
Why do my passions lean so strongly towards the indulgent, sensory space of food and wine? Could they not be channelled into more practical applications like, say, triathlons? Surely if I applied the same level of commitment to fitness that I do to dining, I’d be a contender for an Ironman title, no?
For me, routine physical activity (I cycle regularly) is the penance I pay in order to continue my relentless pursuit of the perfect meal. Matt is still an exceptionally fit guy; health is a matter of personal and professional pride for him. However, he also met and married a wonderful woman who comes from an Italian heritage in which food and drink is revered. Her infectious, unrelenting lust for life has awakened in Matt, among other things, a new appreciation for great food. He now approaches meals with a wide open mind and an eager palate.
It made perfect sense, then, that he should accompany me on my recent visit to Gianni’s Italian Restaurant, the new addition to Central Lonsdale’s dining scene that boasts thoughtfully crafted, Umbrian-influenced cuisine.
On the night of our visit, the arctic cold snap that had gripped Greater Vancouver for days had finally broken, giving way to the more familiar December phenomenon of low-hanging clouds and obnoxiously persistent rain. Walking into Gianni’s, which occupies a large footprint in the old Persepolis space on West 13th Street, the contrast with the dreary evening could not have been more stark. Gianni’s is a warm and elegant restaurant, polished but inviting. Off-white marble floors, heavy, understated brown leather chairs, and softly glowing, amber-hued chandeliers adorn the room, setting the tone for a sophisticated, yet eminently accessible dining experience.
We were seated next to a large, open gas fire pit in front of a long bar that lines the back of the restaurant. Diners seated at the bar are afforded a glimpse of the meal preparation process as the partly open kitchen is situated directly in front of it.
The service throughout our meal was swift, efficient, and attentive, but never overbearing. The maître d’, server, host, and busser (an increasingly rare service unit these days, and one that reveals a sound understanding of traditional fine dining standards) all worked in tandem to ensure that we were never left wanting.
For his first course, Matt ordered beef carpaccio. The beef was sliced paper thin and served with a subtle mustard dressing, shaved parmesan and capers. Too often, carpaccio, which is usually prepared well in advance of meal service, is plated and put into the refrigerator until ordered, at which point the chilly plate is removed from the fridge and brought straight to the diner. The result can be an unremarkable dish the flavours of which remain restrained by the cold temperature. Not so with Gianni’s version, which was served just slightly below room temperature and exhibited a melt-in-your mouth, buttery texture and toothsome sirloin flavour.
My appetizer was a tasty dish of flash-fried calamari and savoury Italian sausage, accompanied by a small arugula salad. The nicely spiced sausage offered a great textural contrast to the squid, while the fresh rocket provided a welcome, peppery brightness.
Keen to try more of the menu, Matt and I split an order of squash cappelletti with prawns in rosé sauce as a second appetizer. The housemade pasta sachets were bursting with rich winter squash filling. The accompanying prawns (five enormous, impossibly succulent specimens) were nicely enhanced by the simple tomato cream.
Gianni Picchi, the restaurant’s chef, has a commendable talent for allowing the flavours of key ingredients to shine through, not bogging dishes down with extraneous or heavy-handed components.
For a main course I tried the Fegato Alla Veneziana, a hearty fillet of calf’s liver pan-seared with balsamic caramelized onions. The liver was beautifully cooked, its exterior seared to a golden brown, its interior still tender and moist.
Matt chose for his main the Saltimbocca Alla Romana, two generous fillets of veal wrapped with salty, crisped prosciutto and fresh sage, served with seasonal vegetables and pont-neuf style potatoes. The dish was simply delicious, striking a wonderful balance between the reserved, subtle flavour of the veal and the earthy flavours of the sage and prosciutto. We paired the mains with a bottle of Ilary Cordin Valpolicella Superiore, a medium-bodied red made up mostly of Corvina, a fruit-forward grape with food-friendly acidity. Our meal, before taxes and gratuity, was $127.
Gianni’s is located at 112 West 13th St., North Vancouver. Phone: 604-960-1015. gianni-s-italian-restaurant.com
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. Contact: [email protected].
