AT a media dinner once, I sat dumbfounded while a local food blogger evangelized on the importance of authenticity in food.
She was left cold by the steamed buns served at a certain Chinese restaurant, which had been winning rave reviews from customers and critics for their utter deliciousness.
"Not authentic," she sneered. She went on, lecturing the table: Pan-Asian menus were indecent, chefs who cooked any kind of fusion food were sell-outs. If it isn't an exact recreation of a traditional dish from whatever part of the world it purports to be from, then, according to her, it's not worth the napkin used to wipe its crumbs from your lips.
I couldn't disagree more. There will always be a place for "authentic" cuisine, to help us understand the flavours, nuances and narrative of a culture, but like all history, culinary history is not static. Cuisines of every culture evolve and change according to the style of the day, ingredients available and influences upon those cooking it.
Even French food - the granddaddy of classic cooking - developed over centuries, influenced by social change, forward-thinking chefs, and ingredients and techniques used in other regions. (Gasp! Could that be called fusion cooking?)
If we could revisit civilization a few centuries from now, I suspect the blogger in question would be horrified; those dishes she so emphatically insisted should remain "authentic" will undoubtedly be reinvented.
I like innovation; I think it's especially suitable here on the West Coast where we have such an inspiring mix of people and cultures. I like food that incorporates local ingredients with traditional techniques; dishes that take chances, that surprise and even sometimes fail.
To me, authenticity is about cooking with honesty, awareness and balance, and having some fun - it's not about sticking to rigid rules and ingredients.
That's why I like the recent trend in Japanese restaurants of creating "specialty" rolls: maki made with the usual sushi rice
and nori, a selection of local ingredients, plus some sweet or spicy sauces drizzled on top. I don't always like the final result, but I do like the effort.
Sushi Nami Fusion Japanese Restaurant is the latest Lonsdale joint to jump on the trend, and they do it better than most.
The restaurant is tucked in mid-block, and if you judged only by the size of the storefront, you'd think it a tiny sushi counter. In fact, it stretches well back from the sidewalk patio. During a visit with my entourage (read: husband and two kids), we were impressed by the splashy red and black décor, and how even the staff - who are exceptionally welcoming and friendly - wear smart red-or black-checked shirts. The giant flatscreen TV playing 30 Rock re-runs seems superfluous, but I'm certain it will be an asset once hockey season gets underway.
We turned our attention to the menu, a hefty, black-jacketed book of a thing, where we found all the expected dishes - miso soup, edamame, vegetable tempura, tuna and salmon rolls - plus a long list of strangely named fusion rolls (Hot Love Roll, anyone?)
We started with takoyaki, crispy spherical dumplings that cracked open to reveal a soft, steaming interior containing slivers of springy octopus. The flavour was excellent, and my children were pleased they'd be able to brag at school the next day about eating octopus balls.
Agedashi tofu was just as good, cubes served blistering hot, with a crust crunchier than some I've tried and drizzled in sauce rather than resting in broth.
For our younger set we sampled a wellmade chicken roll, zig-zagged with teriyaki sauce, and their perennial favourite: a fat California roll.
Our server walked us through her own picks, and those that are ranking high with the clientele. We were tempted by the Michelle Roll - a popular veggie option stuffed with yam, zucchini, eggplant and tomato - but in the end, we decided meat and seafood would make the menu.
The Volcano Roll was a dazzling conical heap of dynamite rolls (tempura, avocado, cucumber), layered with spicy tuna and wedges of battered, deep-fried salmon, all topped with crisp vegetable chips and laced with zesty mayonnaise.
Prawn tempura and avocado also had a central role in the Crunch Beef Roll, but added depth of flavour came courtesy of juicy slices of sautéed beef, then it was all wrapped and rolled in "crunch," crumbled deep-fried batter.
There were plenty of tastes and textures at work on our plates, and we enjoyed the adventure. Our served kept us going by cheerfully keeping our pot of green tea full.
Was it an authentic Japanese food experience? Hardly. It was delicious though, and one we are sure to repeat.
The bill for two adults and two children added up to $39.12, including HST.
Sushi Nami Fusion Japanese is at 1315 Lonsdale Ave., North Vancouver. Call 604-986-0063 for information or takeout.
