IT used to be that a trip to any of B.C.'s top summer vacation spots meant small-town, greasy spoon diners or campfire food.
Over the past decade though, the food revolution that has gripped Vancouver and Victoria has rippled outward, with restaurateurs, chefs, sommeliers and servers migrating to resort communities around the province.
Nowhere is this more apparent than in Tofino.
As we wound down five days of summer fun in the tiny surf town at the north end of the Esowista Peninsula, The Godmother commented that she was amazed at all the good food we had found there.
It's true. Not that you'd want to, but you could forget surfing, beachcombing, or lying in wait for yet another painterly sunset and simply hop on your easy-to-rent cruiser bike and ride from one mouth-watering bite to another.
So herewith -- after much research -- a guide for delicious Tofino eats, in case you find yourself there with 12 hours to spare, an enormous appetite and nothing else to do.
Start with brunch at The Pointe Restaurant at The Wickanninnish Inn (www.wickinn.com). This is a terrific, lower-cost way to spend time at this epic Relais & Chateaux resort. Snag a window seat for an unbeatable view of the wild waves and tuck into a tone-perfect omelette made with lusty wild mushrooms, smoked bacon, Qualicum brie with truffle oil, and a potato gratin with, wait for it . . . a crusty golden Parmesan crust.
You could actually sit back after this dish and call it a delicious day -- but don't.
There's much more to discover in this beach town.
At the stroke of noon, line up for mouth-watering tacos, Gringas and lemon-ginger Freshies at the big orange truck known as TacoFino. Find it at the very back of the gravel lot anchored by Live to Surf and Beaches Market; just look for the hungry crowd.
Go for the classic Baja-style fish taco: tempura-battered ling cod laid out on a fire-toasted flour tortilla with chipotle mayo, shredded cabbage and salsa fresca; or the tuna "ta-taco": seared albacore tuna, mango salsa and cabbage, all spiked with bright hits of ginger and topped by a tangle of bright seaweed and sesame seeds.
Worth noting: TacoFino also put a truck on the road in downtown Vancouver this summer.
It's not exactly the same without the nearby surf, but the food is just as obsession-worthy. Find out where they are on Facebook.
By now, you might be feeling like it's time for a rest, but it's important to try the other fish taco in town -- the one at Sobo (www.sobo.ca). Totally different, but equally delicious, Sobo's Killer Fish Taco is made with spiced-up salmon and seasonal fruit salsa (melon, pineapple, kiwi and nectarine in our case) all jammed into a crispy blue corn tortilla.
Side it with Sobo's famous polenta fries, long planks of deep-fried cornmeal served with Caesar dipping sauce. And don't miss Humpback Shrimp -- kind of a West Coast version of buffalo hot wings -- with cayenne and tequila splashed shrimp, served on lettuce with blue dressing and dill; perfect for folding up and snacking on.
If you've a hankering for something sweet afterward, the chocolate and almond brownie is not to be missed. The Godmother and Legs O'Shea kept up a running commentary about the dense, super chocolaty treat throughout our trip.
"They're worth fighting over," said Legs, as she considered ordering an entire pan to ship home with her.
Next up -- something to wash it all down.
Thirsty Tofitians got lucky this spring when the Tofino Brewing Company (tofinobrewingco.com) opened in a warehouse on Industrial Way.
Look for it on tap at restaurants in town, or head straight to the source where you can pick up a Growler of toasty Tuff Session Ale or a seasonal pick, in our case, the mellow Fogust Wheat Ale.
Time for a nap; you want to be on your game for dinner at the Spotted Bear Bistro (www.spottedbearbistro.com). Chef-owner Vincent Fraissange gathers nearby ingredients for a menu that is both polished and comfortable. And the cosy room -- all raw wood and warm neutrals -- is the perfect spot to escape a West Coast downpour.
Be sure to try the Frikadeller. Fraissange's version of the flattened Danish meatball is made with pork and local prawn atop savoy cabbage slaw and cilantro yogurt. I would go back just for this.
Croquettes are perfect spheres of organic mushroom and risotto, fried and topped with a dollop of grainy mustard and truffle aioli; while spot prawns add a dense, meaty bite to creamy chowder.
If you're in the mood for seafood, have the seared albacore tuna, sliced into thick triangles and laid across a bread salad loaded with basil, oven-roasted tomatoes and black olive purée.
Or try the scallops -- they get a Moroccan twist with lemon and spice-infused cous cous. Duck is a standout, as is the juicy cote de boeuf served with airy mashed potatoes.
Actually, our dinner was all hits, with nary a miss; and it seems to be typical of this town.
There's a delightful emphasis on flavor and ingredients, mixed in with a generous helping of that laidback Tofino personality.
It's utterly delicious eating, and if you plan your day right, you can still make it back to the beach in time for that sunset.
