This week's cold snap had wineries springing into action for the second earliest icewine harvest on record (the earliest on record being Nov. 5, 2003).
Judging by comments from the Okanagan, this may well prove to be one of the largest icewine harvests on record also, which begs the question: is it really worth it? That depends on who you talk to.
From the grower's point of view icewine requires an immense amount of resources. And even before they get to harvest it there's a strong possibility that other enthusiasts, from bears to birds, will try to get their share. All of which means that by the time it gets to your local shelf it doesn't come cheap.
The consensus is that a great vintage (which 2014 promises to be) will likely yield a superb icewine even more so, say some, because of the early freeze. Although, interestingly, there's also a camp who suggests that multiple mini-freezes (before the required sustained harvest temperature of -8 C) can make for a more complex and interesting final result.
Summerhill CEO Ezra Cipes is pumped.
"Icewine is something we can do better here in the Okanagan than anywhere else on earth. To make outstanding icewine you need to start with outstanding grapes, and 2014 was one of the best Okanagan growing seasons ever," he stated in a press release. "Now to have this cold snap so early in November and harvest our icewine grapes before the birds get them is making us all smile and sing around the winery. This is a blessed vintage."
Interestingly enough, one producer that won't be making icewine for the first time in 20 years is Tinhorn Creek, which usually makes a Kerner icewine.
As luck would have it, this year their Kerner needed to be replanted. "When we do that we try to figure if it's time for a change. If we did a lot more icewine it would go to Asia," says Tinhorn CEO Sandra Oldfield, who notes, "Canadians don't really drink it."
All of which begs the question, why not? Even a 375-millilitre (half) bottle is too much for most people to consume at one sitting. My hunch is that the most successful people at selling wines to Canadians are those like Nk'Mip, Paradise Ranch and Tinhorn, who also bottle smaller, 200-millilitre sizes.
True to Canadian form, we really don't make that much fuss about it. Even though icewine presents a wonderful opportunity for pastry chefs to play and show off their skills, you'll rarely see a suggested icewine pairing on a dessert menu.
Also, many icewines are just too sweet for most people's palates. No argument, it can be impressive to savour a wine with upwards of often 200 grams per litre of residual sugar. But your tastebuds can only take so much.
But never fear. The following is my failsafe dessert to guarantee you can enjoy at least some of that bottle of liquid gold you may have tucked away.
The main rule of pairing icewine is that the dessert should be lighter and less sweet tasting than the wine.
Blend three parts soft commercial goat cheese with two parts good quality French vanilla ice cream. When the creamy mix tastes just slightly more savoury than sweet, you've made the perfect match. Divide into and refreeze until a couple of hours before serving, then top with fruit slices such as apple, pear or kiwi. You'll be amazed how well it goes with icewine, Riesling in particular.
Don't serve the icewine too cold. An hour or two in the fridge (around 10 C) should be fine. And pour a small taste into a regular white wine glass to best appreciate the aromas.
Belly's Best
Mission Hill Reserve Riesling Icewine 2013
This pick is a perennial winner. It has bright forward notes of citrus and floral notes, with marmalade hints on a viscous palate balanced by a streak of acidity with a lingering citrus and honey finish, 92 points, BCLS $59.99 (375 millilitres).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
