The old showbiz adage “Leave ’em wanting more” came to mind when I heard last week that pioneering Okanagan winemaker Howard Soon will retire in July.
Soon is an Okanagan original, having joined Calona Wines in 1980. I’ve followed the remarkable growth of the B.C. wine industry pretty closely over the last few decades and Howard has been instrumental in so many aspects almost every step of the way.
Way back in the early ’80s there weren’t too many people interested in tasting Okanagan wines, especially Okanagan reds. But Howard made a pretty quaffable Rougeon (hybrid) before turning his attention to vinifera. In those days Calona’s business still revolved firmly around cheap, bulk wine. That was the model that had always worked and Howard faced an uphill battle.
However, along with a handful of people, including Harry McWatters, he was a firm believer that the future lay in good quality vinifera.
Early successes came with the popular Artist Series wines, which introduced new wine drinkers to the remarkably wide range of varieties B.C. had (and still has) to offer. The labels for the original Artist Series releases were mouth painted by the dynamic Robb Dunfield (who’s now an ambassador for the Rick Hansen Foundation). The combination of Dunfield’s art and achievement with Soon’s consumer friendly wines proved pivotal for Calona.
When I ran into Soon at the Artist Series launch he was beside himself with excitement. Yes, he was pleased with the new wines. But the bigger news was that Calona had finally agreed to invest in a decent press. That press became the crucial tool, beyond the vineyard, in the production of the reserve black label wines that preceded Soon’s award-winning Burrowing Owl, Sandhill and Small Lot wines.
When Howard Soon was starting out at Calona there was barely a handful of wineries in the Okanagan. A born educator, Soon was among the first to present winemaker’s dinners, at the time a concept unfamiliar to most Vancouverites. With his in-depth knowledge and witty delivery, he was able to take both the mystery and snobbery out of wine and make people comfortable.
Soon essentially changed the management thinking at Calona (which was later purchased by Andrew Peller). He’s also been a mentor to many young winemakers, especially to female winemakers, all but non-existent at one time. Howard’s accolades are voluminous, especially for the Small Lot wines he made from the (now sold) Phantom Creek vineyard. This past week alone his Howard Soon Red Blend 2014 was judged Red Wine of the Year at the All Canadian Wine Championships, and his Phantom Creek Syrah ’14 won Double Gold.
The B.C. wine industry owes Howard Soon a huge debt of gratitude. We will miss him. But my hunch is that his winemaking days aren’t over yet.
Pick of the week: Sandhill Small Lots Syrah Phantom Creek 2014
Up-front black fruit and smoky notes, followed by a full-bodied palate of black cherry, vanilla and mocha with well-integrated tannins, peppery spice and cassis notes through the lingering finish (91 points, $37-$42 at the winery).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. [email protected].
